Companions of Swaziland

Sunday, August 20, 2006

Greetings all Swazi. Companions.

Well, per usual all the words, etc. could not totally prepare us for our Mission '06.

The training and shared experiences from Toni, Ron, Melody, Karen, et al, however, were very valuable.

"My land"(as my mother used to say), what an experience we shared and lived. Now we can really get our arms around..."the dust of Africa on our boots".
We all left a part of our selves there and brought home a huge portion of reallity. Will we ever think of concrete blocks, school buildings, safe drinking water, daily food, oral health and health in general the same way again? I think not and that is part of the beauty of what we brought home. The smiles, the singing, the joy! They will live on in our hearts and memories.

The reciprocal joy is that we made a difference(however small or humble) in the lives of those we interacted with. We are forever connected.
Somewhere, half-way round the world, they can know there live people who care and believe in "loving their neighbor as themselves.

Thank you all for one of the most spiritually significant and meaningful events of a lifetime..... ........................................................................TR(Terry)

Wednesday, August 16, 2006

reflections

I have been home in the states a little over a week now and still can't get the images of beautiful Swaziland out of my mind..... the smiles and the dust on the childrens faces, the singing voices, the smell of the wood fire cooking lunch and the warmth of our new friends. Tears fill my eyes each time I think of that young woman drinking the muddy water, and the pride the young man showed as he carried the chlorinator. We did make a difference. But they made a difference in the way I will forever view my life. I am so privileged to have been a part of such a rewarding mission. I am still writing in my journal and just finished a short piece for our church news letter. Each time I write I feel more connected to Swaziland and its beautiful people. I am forever gratelful for the experience and our wonderful team.. Margaret Hansen

Thursday, August 10, 2006

Mike's Accident



Mike, Terry and a visitor sent by the Chief Posted by Picasa

We had the afternoon of Thursday July 27th off after meeting with the localtribal chief in the morning. I walked to downtown Mbabane with five others.As we were returning about 5 PM and as we passed a muti-purpose store, I tripped on a brick that was far from level. I was focused on the person in front and I went down very quickly while saying "oh shit. The full effect ofthe fall was absorbed by my left thumb which was then 180 degrees out of place and I was bleeding like the proverbial stuffed pig.

The shop owners invited the party in and arranged to help stop the bleeding. The shop owners' son was a near by physician and he appeared and offered to take me to the hospital. I chose the private hospital. Terry went with me; Toni and Stevie waited for help from the Center; andKeith and Holly went to the Center to summon help. Many appeared at thehospital.

Result was a dislocated thumb; numbing shots; relocation of the thumb; 2stitches; X-rays with nothing broken; Rx for pain, inflammation and ananti-biotic for under $300 cash. I had bought trip insurance including medical. Between our vet and dentist I was in good care. I saw the doctor again the day before we left. On 8/7 my family physician removed the stitches and referred me to PT for therapy and wound care. I am a diabetic. This was the most memorable event for me but I had many that were more pleasant. On 8/2 I revisited the shop and they were glad to see me and I bought fort he school thru the generosity of Margaret a leather soccer ball with many thanks.
Peace.
Deacon Mike

Wednesday, August 09, 2006


Another use for a wheelbarrow Posted by Picasa

Wednesday, August 02, 2006

Last day at St. Augustine's

Yesterday we began the departure stage of our trip. We made our last trip to Mpaka. Even on the trip out, it was very tough.

The big event was Terry’s program on dental hygiene, conducted for all of the childen at Fr Mbatha’s. Stevie, Margaret and Sue assisted and Fr Charles translated. The children listened attentively and then responded enthusiastically. You must ask Stevie to perform her “song and dance” for you! Later each child was given a kit including a toothbrush, toothpaste and dental floss.

The class was held outside at Father Mbatha’s because the St. Augustine’s too small for all the children to be in. The pre-schoolers are taught inside, while the older children in grades 1 - 3 take their instruction on benches under some “trees” along the back of the property. They face the trees, with their backs to the road so that they will not be distracted by cars, cows, goats, and other assorted passers-by. On our first day at Mpaka, Lucy Mabuza held a math class with the older children. She used a blackboard propped against a tree to drill them in multiplication tables, giving praise and correcting the mistakes in both siSwati and English. She sets a mean pace, I will tell you. I don’t know how the report card came out, but the teachers do, because she met with them briefly before we went to Fr Mbatha’s place.

Yesterday Gene, Holly, Keith, Carla, Andy, Meghan, Ron, Cheryl, Hayley and Terry spent most of their time mixing cement and making blocks. I think they worked through three double batches of mix, our best day. There was constant wheelbarrow traffic at the mix pile and the block forms were really flying. They were assisted by a Swazi crew, including Jack in his Oxford shirt, who has been with us each day. They also stacked the blocks we made last week.

The actual ground breaking for St Augustine’s school will happen when the grant from the UK arrives. Bishop Mabuza explained the goal of the project is to cater to the educational needs of about 70 orphans aged between 5-13 whose parents have died of HIV/AIDS. Te otesHeHhe children will also be fed and clothed. This will benefit the community because orphans who might grow up to be a burden to society are given love and hope and a future by the teachers at the school.

They have architectural plans for a steel frame structure, drawn by a volunteer who has designed and constructed several large projects, and who donated his services. Larger blocks for the outside of the building will be made or purchased and then the whole skin will be plastered. I recommend supporting two blockyards we drive past every day. One advertises “sturdy and affordable blocks”. The other company promises strength, security and passion. The 9-inch blocks we have made will be used to divide the rooms. They will need a great many more to complete the school, but we hope our blocks will be scattered through the classrooms, in the heart of the school, where the children will be taught.

We have learned a lot about what it takes to staff and run a school and feeding program like this one. The Chairman of the Board of Education was at the site yesterday. He gave many details about how to apply to register the school. Feeding programs must also be registered in order to receive government support. When registration is complete, teachers will be chosen by the Diocese, but paid by the government. The completion of this plan is likely more than a year out. The superintendent told me that there will be a wonderful pre-school and feeding program at St. Augustine’s soon and thanked us for the part we have played in getting it started.

The older grades spend the late morning in a “Practical Skills” class in the garden, while the pre-schoolers come into the homestead to play and sing. On Friday and yesterday, Margaret, Sue and Stevie made a peanut butter sandwich snack for the children. We all take turns singing and playing with them, but the afore-mentioned three, and Lydia, Holly, Hayley, Carla and Meghan are the regulars. They have gotten to know many of the children and their stories.

The women prepared a marvelous feast for our last day. A goat was killed and roasted and the rest of the meal prepared under the unfortunate goat’s skin, which was hung in a tree near the cooking fires. We had jello salad, potato salad and a wonderful cooked cabbage, onion and carrot side-dish. We had chicken, mashed pumpkin and cauliflower. The trees and the round house were strewn with bouganvillea flowers. It was quite a party.

After the meal, the children sang for us and we sang for them (we figured it was safe since it was our last day). Then the presentations started. In addition to our mission team, ArchDeacon Lonorosa and Fr Charles, the members of Fr Mbatha’s household, the lay minister, the teachers, the fellow from the Board of Education, and three members of the house of Malindza, including the Chief’s father, were in attendance. School supplies, books and other gifts than many of you sent along with us were presented in a wheeled duffel bag. Rice, beans, and fresh vegetables meant to supplement the children’s meals for the next week were presented. Each child received the toothbrush kit and an orange. Many thanks, hugs and final prayers were shared. Then we began to say good-bye to our new friends. In the midst of this, the most extraordinary thing happened. A rainbow appeared in the sky over the Lubombo Mts to the south. There in drought stricken Mpaka, in the middle of the dry season, a rainbow appeared.

Last night, here in Mbabane, the skies broke open. Thunder and lightning, followed by drenching rains washed down the hills around the centre. Today part of our group will hike at Malahlotja Preserve. They hope to see more big game, but whether they are successful in achieving that or not, they are sure to see the famous Malahlotja Falls. Just today, even though it is the dry season, the falls will be flowing mightily, a gushing fountain of water, a symbol of the life giving energy available to us in the southern Africa landscape as everywhere else.

Reflections on Changes in Southern Africa . . .from Andy

Reflections on Changes in Southern Africa

Like everywhere else, rural Swaziland (and South Africa) has changed in the last thirty years. In spite of the reports that make it sound as though poverty and hopelessness are endemic and the permanent state of affairs, to someone returning after years of absence, the changes are striking.

While mud brick and reed huts are still dotted around the countryside, they have largely been replaced by cement block dwellings, or relegated to secondary storage purposes. Because Swaziland is still a poor country, cement blocks are made a few at a time as sand and cement can be afforded. Thus there are piles of cement blocks stacked in people’s backyards throughout the countryside, almost like bank savings accounts, waiting to become the next course on someone’s new home. Half-finished buildings litter the landscape, frequently built up to the eaves, and looking as though they have had their roofs ripped off, and their windows blown out, by some recent devastation. But, in fact, they are merely mute testimony to the determination of the local people to better their lives, and they await the accumulation of sufficient resources to purchase the final most expensive items: the roof , the windows and the doors.

Bur this is another place where the AIDS epidemic breaks through to public view: many of the homesteads are in fact deserted, because the wage-earner(s) have died, and the kids have been farmed out to relatives (if they are lucky). The property will eventually revert to the local chief to redistribute (if there is anyone to redistribute it to!). Also, like elsewhere, the youth are migrating to the cities, so that the countryside is being depopulated.

Another obvious change is the power lines that now criss-cross the countryside (often on drunken wooden pylons). Power and, with it, electric lights have come to rural southern Africa, with all its implications for life not ending when the sun goes down.

The most obvious change is in the traffic. The roads in Swaziland are excellent, often dual carriageway, well contoured and planned. Traffic, on the other hand, is not. There are far fewer bicycles than 30 years ago, but everywhere a swarm of small cars and pick-up trucks. These are frequently a major road hazard, since when fully (over)loaded, (their normal status), their top speed is about 30 MPH, and less on the many hills. Thus traffic backs up behind them and the overloaded and underpowered heavy over-the-road trucks, and the kombis (taxi vans – Toyota HiAces) also fully overloaded, attempt frantic overtaking maneuvers also at 30 MPH on blind curves and hills, where both grind up together, side by side, taking both lanes, and neither willing to concede defeat.

On the other hand, because rural Swazis do not live in compact villages, but rather in homesteads (kraals) scattered over the hillsides, off the main roads the roads are essentially cattle tracks, and cars and tires take a beating, because every homestead needs its own track to the paved road. All in all, it can be a lethal mix that requires constant vigilance.

Sunday Service at St. Matthias

Last Sunday, Beth, Andy, Cheryl and I attended church at St Matthias, one of Fr Orma’s parishes. Reverand Orma is one of the women priests ordained in Nov 2004, when the delegation lead by Bishop Scarfe came to celebrate. She drove to the Thokosa Centre to meet us and show us the way to St. Matthias. As she stepped out of the car and looked around, her presence literally permeated the air. This spirited woman just EXUDES love. When she talks, you must listen.

She welcomed us with a huge smile, hugged each one of us and said, “I am so happy you are coming to my church today.” She told us we should follow in a van because she would not be able to bring us back, since there was a large community meeting at the Chief’s Kraal after the service. She had just come from visiting a family sick with HIV/AIDS and had conducted a funeral and we had better go because she wants us to have a tour of the priest’s house that Iowans had built before the service (this is the house that Ron and Toni helped build in their first trip to Swaziland). Warm words just spill out of Fr Orma, with such energy and emphasis, they feel like they are smiling as broadly as she is. So we followed, Andy driving.

The church is “just in” the Ezulwini Valley and it has a spectacular view, green even now. Fr. Orma rousted the lay minister who lives in the parish house and we had our tour. Then we followed her to her office. There she explained that in spite of the computer on the desk we should contact her through the Cathedral because she is hardly ever in her office. “If I am here, I am not doing my work”. She told us of her visits to the sick, particularly of taking a relative to the hospital in Mbabane the night before. He is in the terminal stages of AIDS. He needs to be in the hospital, but there are no beds. She takes him to the out-patient clinic for meds to help control the pain, but it does not control the pain. She wishes we could visit him so that he knows the people of Iowa are here and are thinking of him. But she has to go to the Chief’s Kraal after the services. And she is smiling. I have to write in the present tense. There is no past or future tense in Orma’s vocabulary.

Beth tells Fr. Orma about the information she has been gathering about the impact of AIDS on the communities we have visited. Orma says, “yes it is a very difficult thing to know about because people here don’t talk about it.” She tells us the story of a young Christian man who appeared at St. Matthias a few months ago. A short time ago he asked her to visit his family. One parent has died of AIDS, the other is in the terminal stages and a younger sibling is sick. And she said to him, “why didn’t you tell me? We can help you.” She said to us, “these are great opportunities to bring Christ’s love to people”. She tells that she and others go to help the sick people be peaceful and to know they will have a holy death. And the love she has for ALL of us and her work just sits on every word.

We left her office just minutes before the service started. We choose seats midway back in the church (good Episcopalians all) and are immediately given prayer books and song books. We use the Service Booklets we were given by Bishop Scarfe because there is an English translation. But we read and sing along in siSwati. It is a wonderful service. Fr. Orma asks the lay readers to please read the Ephesians text in English so we can understand it. The man reading the Psalm hands off to a women who reads from the English Bible. Later Fr. Orma gives a brief synopsis of the Gospel reading so we can follow along. She starts her sermon by telling the congregation that we are visiting from Iowa. She says, “someone tell them what you know about Iowans.” A women in the back answers ,”they built the priest’s house.” She says to us, “see, we know who you are here. Here you are known.”

She asks us to come up and say a few words, and we do. Most of the congregation understands us; and clap as we explain why we are here and how happy we are to meet Fr. Orma and her parish. Andy spoke of Bishop and Lucy Mabuza’z trip to Iowa last summer and the Healing Services. I told them that one of our priests had preached at Fr. Orma’s ordination and that Reverend Barbara had told us about Reverend Orma’s work. When we sat down, Orma said, “but you didn’t tell them the news. Your priest is going to Iowa. In November. Yes, I will visit Iowa and take greetings from the people of St. Matthias to the people of Iowa. I will visit their churches”. Everyone clapped.

Fr. Orma’s sermon on the feeding of the 5000 was very powerful. She laid out her main theme, “if you have two of something, do as Christ would do. Give one to someone who needs it more”. She said, “God’s love brings these people all the way from America. They don’t have to come here, they don’t know us. God’s love brings them to the Swazi people. Because of God’s love they love the Swazi people.” My thoughts flashed to the Commissioning Service at Christ Church, in which Barbara asked, “do you intend to carry the love of this parish to the people of Swaziland?” And we answered, “We intend to”. Well, we needed some help, but through Fr. Orma, we did accomplish this charge.

Reverend Orma walks around while she talks, giving examples of sharing sandwiches to the children seated along the side and examples of sharing school books to a youth sitting in the front row. Still more messages to the adults. One was, “what are you doing with 8 candles and you have electricity? You have electricity and you keep 8 candles in case it thunders, when your neighbors crawl through their dark house to find their beds at sunset? What are you doing? Are you living like Christ? These people came from America to worship with us and help us, out of God’s love, out of God's love we can help each other. We can help our neighbors, we can love our neighbors. When I see someone with 15 chickens or 20 chickens in the yard, I think, do what Christ would do. Feed your neighbor who doesn’t have any chickens.”

So here ends the story. Through experiences like these, we, each and all, are every day receiving much more than we have brought or given. Amen.

A Black Webbed Belt . . from Toni


Some of the orphans at St. Augustine's












An interesting thing happened on the way over here. I borrowed an old green woven cinch belt from my daughter-in-law to keep one of the bags I was planning to check secured during the flight. When I got here and claimed the bag at the airport, I noticed that the belt was missing. My first thought, and only concern, was how I was going to explain to Tonya that I had lost it. At the Thokoza Centre, when I unpacked the bag, I was surprised and amused to find no official notice in the bag, but a brand new webbed belt in charcoal black. I couldn’t imagine where it had come from, or why it was there.

This whole week I have been trying to figure out what this meant. Is it a metaphor? Is it an omen? Or is it just a black webbed belt?

During Father Advent’s sermon Sunday morning it finally struck me. The black belt is all the unexpected assistance that has turned up at just the time most needed to solve the mini-crisis of the moment. It was the night watchman coming out of the 6:30 a.m. shadows to throw a bucket of water on the windshield of the van and melt the ice so that we could get to church on time. It was the kindness and resourcefulness of the owners and staff of the A to Zee store who made sure that we got the help we needed when Mike fell down. It was Terry finding a key ring that would fit his finger and could stand-in for a wedding ring during his and Stevie’s renewal of their marriage vows. It was the guides at Hlane National Park pooling their information so that everyone was able to see the animals. It was Bishop Mabuza’s eloquent defense of the project and of why the chief, and his councils should allow us to continue to work at Mpaka.

It was so many large and small beneficences that have made our first week in Swaziland comfortable and smooth.

And so I give thanks for black webbed cinch belts – as well as for delicious food, beautiful weather, sensitive and cooperative traveling companions, the awe inspiring beauty of the Kingdom of Swaziland, but most of all for the never-failing graciousness, goodness and warmth of the people of this country.

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

South Swazi

Greetings from Mbane and Thokoza center. Yesterday was gratifying, disurbing, potentially life changing. We drove to the very southern edge of the country, through beautiful mountains with forests of gum and pine trees. Then farther south, into the dry country bordering Natal, which was visible across the valley on our right. We picked up the Archdeacon of the southern area and Rev Nancy, known to those who were on the last Swazi trip. She graciously offered us tea and a variety of treats, very refrshing after our morning drive. She has a neat and beautiful church surrounded by a large garden. There is such a shortage of priets here that each serves several parishes. One of her's is very poor, so each time she goes, she brings them food and cooks dinner so they don't leave church on an empty stomach. Still, it is so far for some that they must be hungry again by the time they get home.

We then drove to this parish, so the Coe team could demonstrate water chlorination. This was poverty. Folks here live in traditional wattle and daub homes with straw roofs. They were probably wearing most of the clothes they own, and they were ragged and torn. Mostly barefooted, even the adults. Since traditional women always cover their heads, theirs were covered with whatever they had, including woolen mufflers or a stocking cap.

But what really gripped us was their water situation. Below the village (and as Gene the vet pointed out later, below the cattle dipping tank) is a water hole which fills with rain water and from which every living thing gets their water for the year. This was a smelly muck hole that even cattle would turn away from if they had a choice. As it was, the cattle dived in up to their bellys in mud to get at the water. And the people drink from this too. They got us a couple of buckets (it appears they've laid logs over the mud to get at the water), which was thick and brown. Paula asked if this is the water they drink, and one of the young women laughingly grabed a small pitcher, dipped it in and drank from it. If any of us had done that, we'd be in the hospital today. How do their immune systems allow them to do this? Rev Nancy says it is the hand of God, protecting people who have no other hope.

The Coe team demonstrated the chlorinators to the 20 or so people gathered there, then asked someone to go through the procedure. A young man stepped forward and immediately went through the entire procedure accurately. Shows how fast one can learn when the information is important to you. It turns out he and his wife live closest to the water hole and will be in charge of distributing chlorine to all who come for water. The archdeacon emphasized that the chlorinator is to belong to everyone in the village and chlorine is to be given to everyone, Anglican or not, Christian or not. Rev Nancy will be checking back to see that it continues to be used and used correctly.

We then did the rejoicing and celebrating, giving them "I am loved" buttons and our packed lunches, them singing to us in return. Then they all returned to their homes, some of them heading far across the valley, carrying their babies on their backs and other goods on their heads, water buckets, a machete, whatever. It was a great day for us to see what a difference a small gift can make, a day to see how much God has for us to do, an example of how we cannot give without receiving, a day too much to take in but to ponder on and make sense of over time.

Beth

Sunday, July 30, 2006

On Safari at Hlane


Today we went to Hlane Wildlife Preserve. It’s the largest protected animal park in Swaziland. We were guided in 3 land rovers through 30,000 hectares. Believe it or not, there was a chill in the air today and slight frost on the grass this morning. We saw Impala, not the Chevy, the herd type. The guide explained that the “M” marking on their tush stands for McDonald’s – to the lions. One of the greatest sights, was to see 7-8 white rhinos – 5 of which were laying in the middle of the road. Their heads are HUGE, not sure how their necks don’t get stiff.

We were within 10 feet of a young male elephant. He had only one tusk, which the guide explained he lost one in a fight. It was fascinating to see him swirl his trunk around the tall grass, then kick it with his foot, so that he was not pulling up the roots.

We also saw a pride of lions, which blended perfectly with the tall grass. The guide pulled the land rover within 25 feet of these gorgeous animals. It was incredible. We also observed were warthogs and numerous birds.

We had lunch at the reserve, under a giant tree with branches that reached down to the ground, so it was like eating under a large, living umbrella. As we were eating, our treat was to watch the rhinos at the waterhole.

Afterwords, we visited the house that Fr. Charles is building. The landscape was absolutely breathtaking, with a view of a great mountain scene.

The extreme contrast in life here is almost indescribable. Fr. Charles and Arch Deacon, Lona Rosa are two of the nicest, compassionate men I’ve ever met. And yet, due to “random acts of violence”, we stay within the gates of Thokoza Church Centre in order to be safe. The mountains and valleys are absolutely the most beautiful on earth and yet the HIV/Aids rate for adults is estimated at 42%, which means nearly half of the adults will be gone within the next 5 yrs. ArchDeacon LonaRosa said he is burying 8 people per week from the parishes he oversees. It’s very tough on the priests And even though poverty is a huge problem here, you hear the people laughing together – often.

Going back in time – yesterday Sue showed her Godly play story to the children. It was the story about Abraham’s life. When she was done, she asked the kids what the most important part of the story was. A girl raised her hand and said, “To pray to God everyday”. Sue agreed and said that God always knows what’s in our hearts and he wants to hear from each of us, because we are all his children. HOW COOL IS THAT???

Another question: “How does this story relate to you and your life?” One boy said that he is now living here on earth, like Abraham was in the story.

That day we fed the kids peanut butter sandwiches and gave them stickers, which they put on the faces and arms. They loved both.

Something very whimsical that day. Stevie and I decided we would help the women do the dishes after lunch. We went by the fire where their children were. Their skinny puppy started a tussle with the rooster, which fluffed up it’s feathers. The puppy was winning the boxing match. The puppy also took on the goat, but the goat won.

Every day is a great adventure. Thank you all for your prayers. We all feel it and are very appreciative. Ohh and good news about our songs. We are sounding better together, as we will be called to sing on Wednesday, the night of our going-away celebration. Luckily, Meghan is very good at playing the Xylophone. Carla and Lydia have been practicing a great duet, “I’ll be a Sanctuary.”

One more week here….

Reflections by Cheryl

Riding through Swaziland. . .


Hi everyone, you who seem to be a world and a lifetime away. And yet all too soon our time here will be over and we will be re-entering our reality. But will we ever be able to leave this reality behind? Reading about the Third World is one thing; being here is another. So many things amaze me about this land and its people. Everywhere people are walking, so close along the road we hate to travel after dark because we fear hitting someone. Women with large bundles on their heads and a baby tied to their backs. And the cattle roam as if this were India. Brahma type cattle with mean looking horns, but they seem to get along with the young children who walk along for miles through the fields to their homes, unaccompanied by adults. Children here are given so much freedom here; it has to be building their sense of competency. They are also tremendous workers; they seem to assume if they are strong enough they will do whatever work they are capable of doing and feel proud of themselves for it; no whining here.

Houses are scattered over the hillsides, either on plots people have been able to buy title to (no further taxes unless it’s annexed by the city) or that the head man/local chief has given them. So that means plots can be separated by random spaces of open grasslands. Fields are brown now because it’s winter, but you can tell they know about terracing. I’m surprised that there is not a vegetable garden by every house, but maybe that’s what the “agriculturalists” are being trained to help people learn to do. With such a long growing season, one would think they’d be able to bring in something from garden to table about all year. But I don’t have energy for a vegetable garden after driving home from work, why should they after walking home. They grow tremendous cabbages here. We followed a pickup truck—called a van here—piled to a peak with cabbages for market, and not a one rolled off. We also see semi-loads of sugar cane, bags of raw sugar, timber, and oranges, most of which is for export rather than local consumption. When a chicken costs $3, you know most of the people are not eating meat, just lots of mealie meal.

Spring has been coming on, visibly during the past week, with new flowers coming into bloom, a purple magnolia like tree, yellow spikes of something, wild pears, royal coral trees. One good rain and I think the whole world would burst into green.

We went to a wild life reserve today, and I think Cheryl would like to tell you about that, so I’ll turn it over to her.

Beth

Thursday, July 27, 2006

The Chief's Kraal, part 1. . .from Lydia







Today we visited the chiefs home, or royal kraal (corral in America). It was very interesting. After our initial welcome, the Bishop and Ron made small speeches about why we were here and what we were doing in Swaziland. The chief also welcomed us there. When the Bishop asked if we could take pictures to take back to the US, the Chief said that they should be the ones asking to have their pictures taken so that the world could see more of Swaziland. Then the Chief and his council took us tour or the property. There was a small area where the warriors would meet with chief, then a small cow pen where a young boy tended the herds. Outside there was a large area where women were sifting sorghum. They told us that this sorghum is also food for the orphans. There were a few huts where the young men stayed when they harvested the sorghum and a place where the women prepared the food. The last place we visited was the house of the Chief.

On our way back to the welcome hall the Chiefs jester grabbed me and dragged me to the front of our group towards the Chief. He was talking in SiSwati so I couldn’t understand him, but a woman next to me said he was taking me to the Chief to be his bride. The Chief seemed very surprised at this news and laughed with the rest or us. At our farewell, as the advisor was thanking us for coming, the Chief leaned over and whispered something in his ear. Then the translator said ‘and I understand there is a young lady among us that has to stay here in Swaziland with the Chief’. Everyone laughed and when we went out side to go, I got my picture with the Chief. Mom mentioned that I would like to come back to teach at St. Augustine’s. I told him I would look him up and he said “You’ll find me here”.

Lydia

A Visit to the Chief's Kraal

On Monday, our first day at Mpaka, we were closely observed by the "headman", representing the Chief of the district. He sat in a chair under a large tree and just observed. Until the demonstration of the chlorinator. . . This got his attention.

His presentation to the assembled group was quite enthusiastic. He welcomed us to Swaziland on behalf of the Chief. He said it was very unusual for American visitors to get their hands dirty in Swaziland. He said, in fact he had never seen that before. He also commented that it was good to see American women working alongside the American men. He said it would be good for Swazi women to see that. Maybe they would work harder. This brought a variety of reactions from our group, as you can well imagine. Luckily none of them damaged US international relations.

At that time he invited us to the Chief's Kraal. He said the Chief would want to meet these American visitors and would be very interested in the chlorinator.

He returned to the worksite on Tuesday to say we were officially invited. He said, all the women must wear skirts. Sue asked what the men would wear. His reply - whatever they want. They're men.

So today was the day. We left the Thokosa Centre early to be sure to arrive on time. Bishop Mabuza, ArchDeacon Lonorosa (sp. with apologies), Fr Charles and Fr Batha were with us. This was one of the most fascinating meetings that any of us have ever attended.

I will leave it for another member of the team to sketch this meeting out for you. There were many stages and phases that bewildered us. I'm sure you will hear many different reflections on what went on. But it seems that all ended well.

One part I will mention, I just have to, is that the Chief himself repeated the observation that "you people don't do this kind of work". I know this. You people don't do this.

He also mentioned his appreciation for the gift of the chlorinator, that would be available to the whole community, all of whom really need it.

He and many other speakers thanked us for coming and said that he hoped we saw a community that worked together to solve community problems.

More on this later, Paula

Behind the scenes at St Augustine's. . .from Sue

July 26
On our journey to the worksite at Mpaka each day we see so many interesting things.—today we discovered that they mark the road lines by placing white dots alongside a rope. They come back later with yellow paint to join the dots together. We see basket makers, tin smiths/people selling roasted corn on the roadside. Animals run free here—goats, cattle all graze on the side of the road. Children—even very young children walk along the roadside with cars whizzing by. This goes on all day and well after dark. Today we noticed a sign on a store for “23 Psalm Investment!”



We had a wonderful day at the worksite today where we go to make bricks. However today there were so many extra hands helping that instead of fighting for a shovel we had time to get to know our new friends. Whereas the first day my offer of help with cooking the meal was turned down—I think because we were guests—today my offer of help was accepted and I got to chop potatoes and beets for our lunch. While doing so I had my language lesson! Cheryl learned to carry a bag of oranges on her head.

When the St Augustine School children came for their lunch, Cheryl and I had a great game of football. Lydia played a game of basketball with another group of children, and tried to learn their rope-jumping game.

After lunch the children sang songs for us, and some of us danced while they sang. We were taught to dance as the Swazi people dance. After that, our resident dentist, Terry asked us to help him distribute gum to all the children. It was a great treat for them and they never knew they were cleaning their teeth!

Sue

More on blockmaking. . . from Gene




July 26

What a great day at the work site. We were making more blocks today and 5 or 6 children were trying to help fill the molds and pull the slipform off of the wet block. Several of the boys tried to pull the form off but just could not do it. I pulled it off and began making more blocks while they helped fill the forms with block mix. They again wanted to try to pull the form off of the wet block. A couple of boys tried again and could not pull the form. A little girl wanted to try so I let her have a turn, and lo and behold, she did it. We gave her a round of applause and filled the form for another block. The boys were even more determined to pull the form since they had just been shown up by the girl in the group. This time they were successful. I soon found myself standing back and giving them some direction on how to fill the form, shake it and then pack it so they could then pull the form. We applauded as they were successful in making one block after another.

I must admit that I was a bit annoyed at first as they were slowing the process of making blocks down by wanting to try but not being successful at doing it. After they got the hang of it and began making one block after another, I realized that I would be gone in a week but they would be here to help continue making blocks in the future for their school. We were so proud of their accomplishment. As Andy said, it was a Tom Sawyer moment.

Gene

Blockmaking 101


Step number one.
Move five wheelbarrows of sand to the mixing area.










Step number two. Add one bag of cement mix.
Step number three. Mix. Mix. Mix.




Step number four. Add 2.5-3 large buckets of water.




Step number five. Stir well.



Step number six. Load into wheelbarrow.


Step number seven. Cart to blockmaking area.


Step number eight. Shovel into molds.




Step number nine. Tamp down and remove the form.

photos, may be slow to load`



Beth went to church at one of Father Advent's parishes on Sunday. About half the population of Swaziland is under the age of 15, and so are the parishioners.

Andy and I were at St Luke's with Fr Charles. The chairman of the school development fund showed us the Anglican school there. Here we are in a typical classroom.

A few of the 500 interested parties look on.

All of the Anglican schools are full and they operate on very limited budgets.

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Mpaka, a Meeting and the glass factory

Sanibonani,

This is a midmorning update from the Water Group, taking advantage of an unexpected opportunity to jump on the web.

This morning, most of the team climbed into the vans and head to Fr Batha's homestead for a half day of brickmaking. We are willing shoveller's, cement mixers and form packers, but we don't have the talent of our Swazi lead man. Many of the blocks we make fall apart when the forms are lifted. No problem, just try again! Andy thinks we'll have it down soon, maybe next Tuesday, our last day.

Many members of the group have made friends with Swazis at Fr Batha's homestead. Fr Batha established St Augustine and the women at his homestead prepare the meals for the children at the school. The feeding program at St Augustine's has been reduced to three days and they have been serving only meali meal due to ever more limited resources. So the children were not at school yesterday, but will be there today. We hope to help with the feeding program even while we are here, if this is possible.

The water situation is also not good. With very limited rain water remaining in the barrel, they have to use water from a nearby pond for washing and preparing food. On Monday our group demonstrated the chlorinator. They are using it now at Fr Batha's homestead. This was an amazing experience that will require an entire post. I will collect pictures tongiht to illustrate the text. I'll post the whole story tomorrow.

The vans are driven each day by Ron and Father Charles, priest at St Lukes parish of 5 churches. Fr Charles is a most remarkable man, as those of you who have met him know. Soft-spoken, quick-witted and possessing excellent English, he gets one of us going in circles each day. Small price for his help negotiating the plan for the day, and our many bright ideas, i.e. changes in those plans. One of our group thanked him for his patience. His response, "I am African. In Africa you must be patient. Otherwise you would be frustrated most of the time." Yes. But how do you actually do that?

Our stay here has been anything but frustrating, because of our gracious hosts. Father Advent has been called to University two weeks earlier than he had planned, so Father Charles is in the driver's seat, literally. The accomodations at Thokosa Centre are good and the meals are wonderful. We have been asked if there is anything we would like to see and do in addition to what has been planned. There is so much in the plan, we haven't requested any additions. Each afternoon on the way back from Mpaka, we have a side trip to a market or other attraction. Today the group that went to Mpaka will come back early for a trip to a glass factory and rug factory north of Mbabane. Our hosts provide these ideas and we ride along enjoying the scenery and then the places we are taken. The air is SO CLEAN and REFRESHING and the sunsets so SPECTACULAR, they cannot be described.

OK, so what am I doing here in Mbabane when most of the team is making bricks in Mpaka? Bishop Mabuza arranged for us to meet with representatives of two Ministries - "Geology and Mining" and "Environment and Tourism". Today we met with the assistant director of the Division of Geology and Mining. I was able to ask him about the survey operations they perform, about their use of GIS, and whether they use college interns to do the work of digitizing existing data. Hayley, Carla and Meghan were there and Thdebekile, the director of the HIV/AIDS program, was our Swazi guide. (I apologize for what I am sure is not the correct spelling of her name.) We were graciously received and got much information we could not have learned elsewhere. We also purchased a set of very fine maps. One thing we learned is that this division drills boreholes upon application and could perform that service at St Augustine's. There is a very long list of applicants and only two field teams. However access to ground water at St Augustine's, at some point, will not be a problem.

I must run now -- down the road, across the river and up the facing hill -- to lunch at Thokosa Centre.

Thank you to all the prayer partners, relatives, friends . . . who are supporting us. You are mentioned often at the table at the end of the day. We are, each and all, being nourished by the experience of this mission. This thought has been expressed by each member of the team. For me, the image is of working hard each day, but finding at the end, cool refreshing water drawn from a very deep well.

I stand in awe of our Anglican companions.

Paula

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

July 24 and July25

We spent our first two days at the "work site".....in Mpaka.......about 1 1/2 hrs. from the Center in Mbabane where we are staying. BIG breakfasts for workers! Met Bishop Mabuza, his wife Lucy @ St. Augustine's school.

Here Bishop Mabuza, Father Dent Mbatha, ArchDeacon Shongwe and Iris, the head-teacher tell us about the program.

We met the 4 teachers and about 100 students......3 classes ....52 preschoolers and the rest grades 1-2 ...we think.

Two classes inside the school......w/a few chairs and 1 chalkboard......a few hadmade posters lined the walls....w/alphabet, etc. The older students were seated on benches under a tree w/a chalkboard....next to the "kitchen"......a tent(about 10x10 ft.) where meals are prepared for the children.

We moved to Fr. Dent Mbatha and his wife Christine's homestead......where we were taught to mix sand, cement and water to form concrete blocks. The first day we had about 5 Swazi men and youth to instruct and help us. The second day.....the main blockmaker, Jack, was there. We had 2 wheelbarrows, 6 shovels (2 without hand grips) 2 watering cans and 2 metal block forms to make the concrete blocks. It takes 3-4 days for the blocks to cure.....w/watering 3-5 times a day.

The first day the children joined us at Fr. Dent's where we were working for dinner.....ar. 2 p.m. They had dried mealy meal, beans and bread and butter sandwiches. We were served mealy meal, rice, fruit and fowl Monday and beef, rice, and pasta w/a mixed fruit for desert. Christine, Fr. Dent's wife and Ntombie are our cooks.

Am Under the time gun!! More Later! Love and Peace!!! Stevie Shively :)

Sunday, July 23, 2006

Sanibonani from Swaziland

Our weekend arrival was very welcome - to us and to our hosts. It did mean we did not have access to the internet until now (Monday, 8:45AM). None of the phone cards have worked in Swazi phones. So this quick message is meant to say "we arrived in Jo'berg on a smooth and uneventful flight, happy to set our feet on terra firma in Africa!" We are all well and well settled in.

We enjoyed a wonderful warm welcome from our Swazi host committee and the parishes we visited yesterday. The Bishop hosted a welcome dinner at Thokoza last night and we were briefed on the HIV and education programs in the Diocese of Swaziland. We had each seen something of the situation they told us about.

We also toured the beautiful north country and the Maguga Dam yesterday.

When I sign off, we will be on our way to Mpaka.

Our plan from now on is to make daily posts to the blog between 4 and 5PM Swazi time. That's mid-morning in Iowa. Check back for more details and reflections from members Swazi team members.

Sala Kahle (good-bye and stay well).

Friday, July 21, 2006

Success

It's about noon in DC and we're awaiting the boarding call on SAA208. We all have boarding passes, the luggage has been transferred from United to South African Air, and there's actually a plane already docked at the gate!

We were able to talk to Mike before he boarded our original flight yesterday. So we know he and Gene and Ron are already in Johannesburg. Tomorrow AM we will be there too! We are certainly ready. Thanks for your supportive thoughts and prayers.

Yeeebo!

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Well, it isn't Swaziland



We are spending our first night of travel at the Dulles Hilton. Flat-screen TV, a spa-type bathing room, all the amenities. How did this happen?





The day started as planned, with the group of 15 convening at the United ticket counter in Des Moines at 4:45. Everyone arrived on time and there were no problems with luggage. We met Julianne, our “24/7” contact. Bishop Scarfe, Donna and Dave Oakland came to the airport to see us off.

We had a rocky landing at O’Hare and then nature’s fireworks really started. Lightning, rain, more lightning, more rain. Our 8:05 AM departure to Dulles and then our 11:50 departure time to Johannesburg came and went. Toni and Andy stood in line, negotiated with United gate agents, and covered all possible bases for alternative flights with South African Air. The rest of the group chatted, walked, read, slept, played cards and snacked on Keith and Holly’s stash of goodies, and maintained good spirits. .

We finally left O’Hare on our original United flight at 12:50PM and arrived at Dulles to start the game of finding alternate flights to Johannesburg all over again. At present we have “guaranteed seats” tomorrow on the flight to Johannesburg we should have been on today. But we don’t have tickets or boarding passes yet, so stay tuned.

We have plans for breakfast and a 9:00 departure for the airport to obtain the coveted boarding pass, proof positive that we are about to embark on our Swazi adventure.

Sunday, July 09, 2006

Mission Team to Leave on July 20














Our mission team will leave on Thursday, July 20 for the flight to Johannesburg & then the six hour drive to Mbabane, Swaziland on July 21. Their mission in Swaziland will end on August 3. We ask your blessing prayers for their journey:

Living God, eternal Holy Spirit, let your bright intoxicating energy, which fired those first disciples, ignite our Iowa mission team in spiritual companionship with our brothers and sisters in Swaziland, as they work together to build St. Augustine's school for orphans in Mpaka, Swaziland. Amen.

Meet the mission team in the attached photo -- all but Mike Stewart, who will join the team from his new home in Tennessee. Kneeling front row left to right: Carla Horsley, Hayley Bright, Sue Genereux, Lydia Brown. Standing left to right: Keith Scherff, Terry Shively, Gene Warren, Paula Sanchini, Beth Robbins, Stevie Shively, Cheryl Valenta, Margaret Hansen, Meghan Felton, Ron Noah, Toni Noah, Andy Pettifor & Holly Scherff.

16 Iowans Set for Swazi Trip

Hailing from the southeast corner of Iowa to the northwest part of the state, the newly-formed Mpaka Mission team gathered on January 21 at St. John’s, Mason City, to get acquainted and plan for their July 20 to August 5, 2006 trip to help build a school for orphans in Mpaka, Swaziland.
Photos: Children from Mpaka, a village in the Swaziland lowveldThe mission team includes Gene Warren, St. John’s, Ames; Sue Genereux and Margaret Hansen, Christ Church, Burlington; Andy Pettifor, Beth Robbins, Cheryl Valenta and Paula Sanchini, Christ Church, Cedar Rapids; team leaders Ron and Toni Noah, Grace Church, Charles City; Lydia Brown and Keith and Holly Scherff, St. Mark’s, Fort Dodge; Ginny Ryan, Trinity, Iowa City; Mike Stewart, St. John’s, Mason City, and Terry and Stevie Shively, St. Alban’s, Spirit Lake.

The Iowa SwaziCompanions ask that you undergird our 16 missioners with your prayers. Pray for these people who are giving of themselves to represent our diocese in the important work of building a school and developing companion ties in Christ with our brothers and sisters in the Diocese of Swaziland. Pray for them as they prepare for this vital mission, during their sojourn in Swaziland and on their return home. Pray as the Swazis will surely say to each of these Iowans, “We thank God for you.”

—Melody Rockwell

Quote of the Day

Christ has no body now on earth but yours, no hands but yours, no feet but yours; yours are the eyes through which Christ's compassion looks out on the world, yours are the feet with which He is to go about doing good and yours are the hands with which He is to bless us now.
—Teresa of Avila

Twelth Night Festival at Christ Church, Cedar Rapids



O, come let us give thanks in the house of the Lord:
For the festive reception hosted on January 6, 2006 by the Roses and Sandbergs;
For the glowing candles, three magi, and star-led procession, and for the joyful singing and sermon of the Epiphany service;
For the 100 people enjoying the culinary miracle of turducken and trimmings perfected under Diane Pettifor's excellent leadership;
For the artistic transformation of the undercroft created by Susie Streit;
For Libby Slappey's laughter-promoting auctioneering that netted $5,000 and counting to build a school for orphans in Mpaka, Swaziland;
For all the many people who cooked, set up, cleaned up, signed up, offered meals for auction, bid at the auction, made generous donations, and participated in a myriad of countless important ways,
We give thanks.

—Christ Church Twelfth Night Festival Committee and Swazi Companions

St Alban's Children Donate to Swazi School


During November, the children of St. Alban's, Spirit Lake, worked on Operation Christmas Child, led by parishioners Elizabeth Ward and Vera Schmidt. A program of Samaritan's Purse, Operation Christmas Child involves children in a simple mission project in which they provide gift-filled shoeboxes for children around the world.

PHOTO: The children of St. AlbansIn December, the church school continued the theme of helping children in other lands. They made rain sticks and learned African folk songs, which they sang during the service on December 18. They also dedicated their church school offering ($35) to help build a school for orphans in Mpaka, a village in the Swaziland lowveld.

Other churches or groups wishing to give to the Mpaka school, a joint project of the Dioceses of Iowa and Swaziland, should send donations to Christ Church, 220 40th Street NE, Cedar Rapids. Write the words "Mpaka school" in the subject line. For more information about the school-building project, contact Melody Rockwell.

Quote of the Day

"I don't believe in charity. I believe in solidarity. Charity is so vertical. It goes from the top to the bottom. Solidarity is horizontal. It respects the other person and learns from the other. Most of us have a lot to learn from other people."

—Eduardo Galeano

Mpaka Missions Meetings Scheduled

Mpaka Mission Meetings Scheduled
by Melody Rockwell

"The children at St. Augustine’s, Mpaka, deeply touched our hearts. These orphans presented the most extreme need we witnessed while in Swaziland." —Rev. Barbara Schlachter, November 2004

Interested in building a school for orphans in Africa? Want to learn more about our beautiful, but tremendously challenged companion diocese of Swaziland? Mark your calendars to attend one of the informational meetings scheduled this fall on Sundays at 2 p.m.

+ November 13 ~~ St. Alban’s, 23rd & Zenith, Spirit Lake

+ November 20 ~~ St. Stephen’s, 223 East 4th Street North, Newton

+ December 4 ~~ Christ Church, 220 40th Street NE, Cedar Rapids [DATE CORRECTED]

Toni and Ron Noah, experienced missioners from Charles City, will be leading these sessions. Come. Immerse yourself in photos, music and the history, geography, culture and political scene of our sisters and brothers in Christ in Swaziland. Be briefed on our new diocesan mission tentatively scheduled for July 20 – August 5, 2006 to help with school construction at St. Augustine’s, Mpaka, Swaziland. The school, an anchor building providing basic education and a feeding program for children, will also serve as an HIV/AIDS education facility, church, community center, and medical clinic.

If you are discerning whether God is calling you to Swaziland or wonder how you might otherwise support this diocesan mission trip, plan on attending one of the fall introductory sessions. The Noahs will inform you about the purpose of the trip, what we anticipate we will do in Swaziland next summer, roughly what the trip will cost and the time commitment to build the mission team before departure to Africa… & more.

Look for information about the upcoming Mpaka Mission meetings at the Global Mission table at the Diocesan Convention on November 4-5. Or, contact Ron and Toni Noah at 641-228-8126 or harimau@thenoahs.net. To become a listed member [Free! No charge! No obligation!] on the Mpaka Mission informational e-mail exchange, contact Melody Rockwell at 319-854-7393 or mrockwrite@netins.net. Also, continue to check this space for updates on the trip.

Brown-eyed children, wide-eyed children,
With beautiful brown faces.
Look up, children of the mother continent.
See the strangers, the unknown.
"Sing for them," say their teachers.
They open their mouths
And their songs open our hearts.
Their images sear forever on our eyes.
Their sounds ring forever in our ears.

Brown-eyed children, wide eyed children,
With beautiful brown faces.
Look up, children of Africa.
Smile for us.
We want to take your picture,
Capture forever the look on your faces—
Wistful, uncertain, bewildered, still hopeful.

The Jesus who said
"Let the little children come to me," says to us
"Now you have seen me.
You have seen the face of God and lived.
And what difference will it make?"


Barbara Schlachter

More Reflections

I still am waking up fully in Africa, before realizing I'm back in Iowa. The experience of Swaziland is deeply imbedded and vitally alive within, the images, sounds, touch and tastes still vivid. God was so profoundly and palpably present in Africa. As Barbara noted, "We have seen the face of God in Swaziland." This morning at about 3 a.m., I got up to ponder and write about why that might be. Of course, God is in Iowa, but why did I feel the holiness that is God less etherally, so tangibly in Swaziland? Certainly, the problems in Swaziland are more severe and clearcut. It is easier to see what God's call is in a very clarion, urgent way. Also, in Swaziland, the church and clergy and laypeople are on the frontline serving people in dire need. We witnessed courage, conviction, perseverance and generosity in large measure by our Swazi brothers and sisters. They provide a model of what it means to serve well beyond what is comfortable and convenient, what it means to live Christ's gospel message on a daily 24/7 basis. The other item I noted in my journal was the cultural static here in Iowa that too often drowns out our relationship with God, Jesus and Holy Spirit -- our busyness, materialism, media onslaught... I want to name the meanings of our spiritual journey in Swaziland -- one by one, as carefully as I pulled the barbed thorns from the material of my skirt and the skin of my legs while on the Nisela Safari. I want to focus with intentional care and discernment on the ways the time in Africa pierced my soul, emotions, goals, prayers. And in naming those penetrating experiences, I hope to retain their presence in my life.

—Melody Rockwell

Thanksgivings

Deacon Pat Johnson read the following at our farewell dinner on Sunday evening, and she gave me permission to share her thoughts with you.
Karen


Bishop Mabuza,

At our welcoming dinner you thanked Iowa for everything we have done for Swaziland. We would like you to know what Swaziland has done for us.

You have taught us about generosity of spirit, courage, and great faithfulness.

You have showed us the meaning of true hospitality.

You have helped our spirits soar with your singing and dancing.

You have been an example of evangelical zeal and church growth.

You have opened up our world to find new friends halfway around the world.

You have broken open our hearts.

You have challenged us to see things differently.

You have helped us to remember how wide and broad is the depth of God's love.

Siabonga Kakhulu. [We thank you very much.]

—Pat Johnson

It's a Wrap

Obviously, we are back! The Iowa Eleven arrived on U.S. soil Tuesday afternoon and are all busy readjusting to American culture. You'll probably be hearing reflections from the others soon. For now, I'll just do a quick wrap-up of our final few days in Swaziland.

On Saturday morning at the cathedral in Mbabane, we attended the ordination of six new priests, two of whom were the first women to be ordained to the priesthood in Swaziland. Barbara Schlachter preached a rousing sermon on the roles of women in the church and in society, with some history of the struggle for women's ordination in the United States. She shared tales of the attitudes and obstacles she and other women faced, and exhorted men to support these new women priests as they face similar challenges in Swaziland. As she stressed that women and men are equally valuable, female voices rang out across the church in "amens" and other shouts and murmurs of affirmation, praise, and thanksgiving. It was apparent that the women present felt empowered by both the event and by Barbara's words. It was an historic day in Swaziland, and both women and men were still commenting on it in the days that followed.

On Sunday, our group split up and went our separate ways to visit various churches across the diocese. I was fortunate to be able to visit the chaplaincy at the University of Swaziland and had an enlightening conversation with one of the professors afterward about the political situation in the country. As you may know, Swaziland's government is the last absolute monarchy in Africa, and a rule-of-law crisis has been ongoing there for quite a while. A new constitution has been drafted, and professors at the university reviewed it and wrote papers in hope of holding a conference to debate the document. Of course, the government axed that idea and, from what I hear, any other attempts at group debate on the new constitution. Whatever complaints we may have here in the United States about academic freedom, and about freedoms of speech and assocation, things are far worse in Swaziland.

Sunday evening brought a farewell dinner at the Thakoza Center, the Anglican retreat center where we were staying. Thanksgivings, reflections, and good-byes were said, gifts and addresses exchanged, but we still had another day of learning ahead of us. On Monday, we met with Revd. Bheki Magongo and Glenda Mbambo, who run the Anglican Church's AIDS education program. Their presention was quite impressive, so much so that a description of their work deserves its own post. Tomorrow I will write more details here on what we learned.

A large group saw us off at the Manzini airport on Monday afternoon, and even though the airport security guard threw us out of the