South Swazi

Greetings from Mbane and Thokoza center. Yesterday was gratifying, disurbing, potentially life changing. We drove to the very southern edge of the country, through beautiful mountains with forests of gum and pine trees. Then farther south, into the dry country bordering Natal, which was visible across the valley on our right. We picked up the Archdeacon of the southern area and Rev Nancy, known to those who were on the last Swazi trip. She graciously offered us tea and a variety of treats, very refrshing after our morning drive. She has a neat and beautiful church surrounded by a large garden. There is such a shortage of priets here that each serves several parishes. One of her's is very poor, so each time she goes, she brings them food and cooks dinner so they don't leave church on an empty stomach. Still, it is so far for some that they must be hungry again by the time they get home.

We then drove to this parish, so the Coe team could demonstrate water chlorination. This was poverty. Folks here live in traditional wattle and daub homes with straw roofs. They were probably wearing most of the clothes they own, and they were ragged and torn. Mostly barefooted, even the adults. Since traditional women always cover their heads, theirs were covered with whatever they had, including woolen mufflers or a stocking cap.

But what really gripped us was their water situation. Below the village (and as Gene the vet pointed out later, below the cattle dipping tank) is a water hole which fills with rain water and from which every living thing gets their water for the year. This was a smelly muck hole that even cattle would turn away from if they had a choice. As it was, the cattle dived in up to their bellys in mud to get at the water. And the people drink from this too. They got us a couple of buckets (it appears they've laid logs over the mud to get at the water), which was thick and brown. Paula asked if this is the water they drink, and one of the young women laughingly grabed a small pitcher, dipped it in and drank from it. If any of us had done that, we'd be in the hospital today. How do their immune systems allow them to do this? Rev Nancy says it is the hand of God, protecting people who have no other hope.

The Coe team demonstrated the chlorinators to the 20 or so people gathered there, then asked someone to go through the procedure. A young man stepped forward and immediately went through the entire procedure accurately. Shows how fast one can learn when the information is important to you. It turns out he and his wife live closest to the water hole and will be in charge of distributing chlorine to all who come for water. The archdeacon emphasized that the chlorinator is to belong to everyone in the village and chlorine is to be given to everyone, Anglican or not, Christian or not. Rev Nancy will be checking back to see that it continues to be used and used correctly.

We then did the rejoicing and celebrating, giving them "I am loved" buttons and our packed lunches, them singing to us in return. Then they all returned to their homes, some of them heading far across the valley, carrying their babies on their backs and other goods on their heads, water buckets, a machete, whatever. It was a great day for us to see what a difference a small gift can make, a day to see how much God has for us to do, an example of how we cannot give without receiving, a day too much to take in but to ponder on and make sense of over time.

Beth